puppy&dog TRAINING


by Dr. Gary Landsberg BSc, DVM, DACVB and Dr. Rolan Tripp, DVM

AN UNFETTERED canine running free through the woods is a romantic vision for a school child but the wise dog owner soon realizes that it is the well managed dog who actually has more freedom to roam. Some form of physical control will be necessary at times. The most appropriate device is one that is safe, humane and focuses on training what is desirable, rather than punishing “or correcting” what is undesirable.

Leashes: A leash attaches to the dog’s head, neck or body so that the dog can be kept safe from harm (or from harming others). The leash also aids in training (to give direction). Four- to six-foot nylon leashes are most popular because they keep the dog close, are low priced, lightweight and come in multiple colours and textures. Retractable leashes can be spooled out to up to 30 feet to allow for more exercise, but they only provide control when in the locked position. Long, light, 10-foot leashes can be used as a dragline or tethered to the owner for dogs that require greater supervision and direction. Chain leashes have the advantage of being chew-proof.

Neck Collar: This is the most commonly used tool for leash attachment. Leather is classy, but nylon is lighter, washable, colourful, easier to adjust, and less likely to be chewed apart. A snap closure is generally preferred because buckle holes do not always allow for an exact fit. The collar should be loose yet sufficiently tight that it cannot slip off the head. If the pet pulls or lunges ahead against any neck device it puts pressure against the trachea and may even lead to an increase in eye pressure (glaucoma).

Choke Collars: These metal or fabric collars are intended to tighten or “choke” as the dog pulls. This may prevent the collar from slipping off but further increases the chances of injury, including the possibility that the dog might strangle if the collar gets caught. Slip collars with a martingale closure are safer since they tighten against the neck but do not choke. Although experienced trainers may be able to use choke collars effectively, these collars do not allow the owner to focus on reinforcing what is desirable.

Prong and Shock Collars: When choke collars do not provide sufficient control, dog owners would be ill advised to consider collars with prongs or those that deliver a shock. While the pain caused by these collars may provide control for large pulling dogs, it’s accomplished by making undesirable behaviour unpleasant (i.e., punishment) rather than reinforcing what is desirable. Also, if the dog receives pain each time it pulls forward to greet or chase (a stranger, dog, cyclist, city bus), fear may increase with each further meeting.

Head Collar: The head collar or head halter encircles the neck and muzzle so that it does not pull against the trachea. The basic principle is that where the nose goes the body follows. Control is possible with any size animal from a small dog to a large horse. On some head halters the leash attaches behind the neck; in others the leash attaches under the chin so that
a gentle pull can turn the head away from any potential problem and toward the owner. A little firmer pull closes the mouth (which stops biting and barking) while a gentle pull up and forward (with the hand cupped under the chin) can coax the dog into a sit. Release tension as soon as the desired behaviour is achieved, and the dog is reinforced. Some dogs resist at first, but will soon adapt by receiving treats or walk each time the collar is applied. A head collar is preferable whenever head and muzzle control is required.

Chest Harness: The chest or body harness prevents pulling against the trachea, but provides poor control and actually encourages pulling. Some body harnesses are designed can be attached to a seat belt for car restraint.

No-Pull Harness: These body harnesses are designed to stop pulling, without placing pressure on the neck. The first generation encircled the front legs with the leash attached at the dog’s back. This would constrict the front legs and pull the dog backwards if the dog forged ahead. However, in newer versions, the leash connects at the front of the chest so that
the dog can be easily pulled sideways or turned around.

Muzzles: Muzzles are used for dogs liable to bite humans. Muzzles that close the mouth as a means of stopping biting should be avoided (except for short term use) because they prevent panting which can lead to hyperthermia. Basket muzzles are preferred because they allow panting and food treats can be passed through the slats.